Anacortes Exterior March Point sits out on its own peninsula between Fidalgo Bay and Padilla Bay, and that position means a deck built there deals with more weather than one a few miles inland. Salt-laden air off two directions of open water, driving rain that comes in sideways instead of straight down, and a moss season that runs long through much of the year all put real stress on outdoor structures. Composite decking has become a common answer to that stress for homeowners in this part of Skagit County, and for good reason — but "composite decking" covers a wide range of products and installation quality, and on an exposed site like March Point, the details matter more than they would on a sheltered inland lot.
Why March Point Is a Different Deck-Building Environment
A deck on the peninsula isn't dealing with occasional rain the way a covered porch further from the water might be. It's dealing with wind-driven moisture that gets under railings and between boards, salt air that accelerates corrosion on anything metal, and near-constant humidity that keeps organic growth like moss and algae active for more months out of the year than in drier parts of the state. Add in the lack of tree cover or terrain shelter that a lot of March Point properties have, being out on open, exposed ground near the water, and you get a structure that ages faster than the same deck would somewhere more protected.
None of that means a deck on March Point is a bad idea. It means the material and the install both need to be chosen with that exposure in mind, rather than defaulting to whatever's cheapest or most common inland.
What Composite Decking Actually Solves Here
Composite decking is made from a blend of wood fiber and plastic, capped on most modern boards with a protective polymer shell that doesn't absorb water the way solid wood does. For a marine-exposed site, that non-absorbent surface is the main advantage: it doesn't swell, cup, or split from repeated wetting and drying the way untreated or even sealed wood can, and it gives moss and algae a harder surface to establish on compared to open wood grain. It also skips the annual or biennial sealing and staining that wood decking needs to hold up in this climate, which matters on a property where the weather makes that maintenance window shorter and less forgiving.
That said, composite isn't maintenance-free, and we don't tell homeowners it is. Capped composite boards still need periodic washing to keep organic buildup from staining the surface, especially in shaded or low-airflow spots where moisture sits longer. The difference is that it's cleaning, not sealing or refinishing — a meaningfully lower burden over the life of the deck.
Where Composite Makes Less Sense
Composite decking runs at a higher upfront cost than pressure-treated wood, and on a small, low-exposure deck that gets regular sun and airflow, wood with a consistent sealing schedule can still be a reasonable choice. We'll say that plainly in an estimate rather than upselling composite on every job. The calculation shifts on March Point specifically because the exposure is higher and the maintenance window for wood is shorter, which is why we lean toward composite for most peninsula decks — but it's a site-specific recommendation, not a blanket rule.
What a Correct Composite Deck Install Involves
The board material only does its job if the structure underneath and the connection points are built to handle the same exposure. On March Point, that means a few things we treat as non-negotiable regardless of which composite product a homeowner chooses:
- Ledger board flashing — the point where the deck attaches to the house is the single most common source of hidden water damage. Proper flashing there keeps water from tracking behind the siding and into the wall structure, which is a much more expensive problem than anything happening on the deck surface itself.
- Corrosion-resistant fasteners and hardware — standard-grade hardware corrodes faster in salt air than most homeowners expect, sometimes staining composite boards around the fastener before the hardware itself visibly fails. Marine-rated or coated fasteners cost more but hold up to the exposure this location actually sees.
- Proper board spacing and drainage — composite boards expand and contract with temperature, and correct gapping lets water drain through rather than pool on the surface. Pooled water is what drives moss and algae growth even on a capped board.
- Joist and substructure protection — even under a composite deck surface, the framing underneath is usually pressure-treated or protected wood, and it needs joist tape or an equivalent barrier at fastener points to keep water from wicking into the framing over time.
- Ventilation under the deck — low-clearance or ground-level composite decks need enough airflow underneath to keep moisture from sitting against the substructure, which is a bigger factor on a damp, low-lying peninsula site than it would be somewhere drier.
Skip any one of these and the composite board's moisture resistance stops mattering much, because the failure happens in the structure underneath or at the house connection, not in the decking surface itself.
Our Process for a March Point Deck
1. Site Walk and Exposure Assessment
We look at where the deck sits relative to prevailing wind and water exposure, how much sun and airflow it gets, and whether the existing structure (if there is one) shows signs of the moisture and salt exposure typical of this location — soft framing, corroded hardware, or staining at the ledger connection.
2. Material and Layout Discussion
We walk through composite options and realistic cost ranges, along with the wood alternative if it's genuinely a fit for the specific spot, and talk through layout, railing, and any structural changes needed for the substructure.
3. Structural and Flashing Work First
Before a single composite board goes down, we handle ledger flashing, joist protection, and any framing repairs. This is the part of the job that determines whether the deck lasts, and it's also the part that's invisible once the decking is installed — which is exactly why it needs to be done right the first time.
4. Decking Installation
Boards go down with correct spacing, hidden or exposed fastening depending on the product and homeowner preference, and attention to drainage at every gap and edge.
5. Final Walkthrough
We go over basic care — periodic washing, what to watch for at the ledger connection over time, and what a normal wear pattern looks like versus something worth a follow-up call.
Comparing Decking Materials for a Peninsula Property
| Factor | Pressure-Treated Wood | Cedar | Composite Decking |
|---|---|---|---|
| Upfront cost | Lowest | Mid-range | Higher |
| Maintenance in this climate | Regular sealing/staining, more frequent given exposure | Sealing/staining to prevent graying, checking and rot | Periodic washing; no sealing or staining |
| Moisture and salt air resistance | Moderate; depends on maintaining the seal | Moderate; attractive but demanding in constant moisture | High; capped boards resist absorption and swelling |
| Moss/algae resistance | Lower; open grain supports growth if upkeep lapses | Lower for the same reason | Higher, though not immune — still needs occasional cleaning |
| Typical service life on an exposed site | Shorter without consistent upkeep | Shorter without consistent upkeep | Longer, assuming correct structural install underneath |
Signs an Existing March Point Deck Needs Attention
Whether a deck is wood or composite, exposure like March Point's tends to show problems in the same handful of spots first. It's worth checking these before they turn into a bigger repair:
- Staining, soft spots, or gaps at the ledger board where the deck meets the house
- Rust streaking or visibly corroded hardware around fasteners and railing posts
- Boards that feel spongy or show movement when walked on, particularly near the outer edge or stairs
- Persistent moss or algae buildup that doesn't clear with normal washing
- Water pooling on the deck surface instead of draining through board gaps
Why a Crew That Already Works March Point Matters
Skagit County's coastline isn't uniform, and March Point's mix of open water exposure on more than one side, agricultural lowland nearby, and limited natural wind shelter is a specific set of conditions that's different from a sheltered lot elsewhere in Anacortes. Knowing which fastener grades actually hold up out here, which flashing details are worth the extra time, and where moisture tends to collect on a peninsula deck isn't something you get from a spec sheet — it comes from building and repairing decks in this exact environment repeatedly. That's the difference between a deck that looks right on install day and one that's still solid a decade later.
If you're planning a new deck on March Point or looking at replacing one that's showing its age, we're happy to take a look and give you a straightforward read on what the site actually calls for. Reach out for a free, no-pressure estimate — we'll walk the property, talk through material options honestly, and give you a clear scope with no obligation to move forward.